The Last Full Day

Today was bittersweet, as I spent my last full day in Nairobi. In the morning, Maddie and I went to the pre-school center to paint the benches we had made on Monday- fun, and not too messy, though I would have given a lot for latex paint. The cheery colors of turquoise and yellow will add a great deal to the classrooms, both in the old center and in the new one when it opens in September.

Then after lunch and a meeting with an amazing woman, Terry, from an NGO working with the aged here in Kenya, it was off to the city market to make some last-minute gift purchases, including my son's vuvuzela (you know- the dreadful-sounding horn used at the World Cup soccer games to cheer for the teams. Am I crazy or what?). The word is Zulu and means, "Let's all celebrate!"

Briefly back to the hotel and then off to our early evening meeting with the grandmothers at what will be the new pre-school center, since several has not seen it. They were thrilled with the property, as was Elizabeth, the teacher, since there will be far more space, both indoors and outside. Our time together was made difficult by two things. First, the eight-year-old granddaughter of Beatrice, one of the original grandmothers, died on Monday of complications from AIDS and Beatrice had gone to the country to be with the rest of her family for the funeral. And second- though far less important in the overall scheme of things, it was our goodby to the grandmothers for this trip. There were many hugs, a parting prayer, and sincere wishes for safe travel, as well as the fervent remark from Elizabeth: "Please don't forget us." As if I possibly could.

And so, in just a little more than 24 hours, I will be on a plane heading for Cairo, then Amsterdam, then Boston, and then Charlotte. By this time Friday evening, I will be on my way up I-85 to my home...and Nairobi, Kenya will be far, far away once again. But a piece of my heart- a very large piece- will remain here with these courageous grandmothers, with their beautiful grandchildren, while I give my own grands many hugs and kisses...while I express continued gratitude for the blessing of their presence in my life...while I pray for the wisdom, courage, and strength to continue the work begun here and in Mwanza and in Kigali among women who are struggling so hard to give their own grandchildren a better life.

Kibera: Africa's Largest Slum

Let me tell you a bit about Kibera, the second-largest slum in the world, the largest in Africa. The statistics vary but  it seems to be generally agreed that somewhere between two and two-and-one-half million people inhabit 2 square miles. Houses- such as they are- are quite literally on top of one another and from the outside edges of Kibera, where roads can accomodate one car-width, the streets get narrower and narrower, until in the center, streets are barely wide enough to permit two people to pass one another.

With no electricity, the place becomes dark and dangerous when night falls. With no running water, people are forced to carry water from several taps maintained by the government for that purpose. With no sewage system, raw human waste runs in the streets or is placed in bags on the roofs of houses where it is susceptible to both vermin and weather. One of the estimates I have heard is that more than 500,000 children in Kibera do not go to school, which means that this extreme poverty will be perpetuated for yet another generation.

Stretching as far as the eye can see, these "houses", each composed of one room and sometimes housing as many as 14 or 15 people, are the growing-up place for thousands of children, the dying place of countless more. 

The desire to bring hope and education to children orphaned by AIDS and now being cared for by their grandmothers is what has prompted the Nyanya Project. Having spent time at the Pre-School Center, seeing these children being fed and educated and cared for by loving adults five days a week makes me more determined than ever to have more and more such centers established. With the rental of a larger property (where considerable renovations must take place), a second center will begin- we deeply hope- this fall. Both centers will be housed in the same building, which will have a play yard outdoors, an indoor kitchen, several classrooms, a office, and bathroom facilities. In all, a total of 80 children will be able to attend, with the goal of preparing them for elementary school, as well as teaching them good health skills and providing nourishing food (which might well be the only food they get each day). The grandmothers working at the center mix a "porridge" of several difference grains (very nutrient-filled) which the children drink each day in addition to their lunch. I found the smell less than appetizing, but the children drink it gladly and ask for more. And a considerable number of the children have grown and are thriving where before they were thin and sickly (most especially those who are HIV-positive).

Yesterday, a group of us spent the morning working with a carpenter and his helper to build some benches for the center. Presently, the children sit on the floor, with no surface on which to write. The benches will serve double- duty: a place to sit when they are eating and a "desk" surface on which to write and color. Tomorrow morning, Maddie and I are going back to paint them in bright colors, which will add some extra cheer to the classroom.

If you'd like to learn more about the Nyanya Project and its work, please visit the website and/or the Facebook page. And if you believe in what we're doing, perhaps consider a contribution to enable us to help more of the grandmothers of these children, the poorest of the poor. For it is in these little ones that the hope for the future lies- their grandmothers realize that, which is why their determination is so great, their dedication so unwavering.

                  

Never a Dull Moment...

Back to the preschool this morning and it was wonderful! Such a welcome from the children, the teachers, and the grandmothers! It was so gratifying to hear the children singing and doing their reading, learning to sound out words phonetically, and then clapping enthusiastically for themselves and one another. I had the total fun of teaching them a song from my preschool music teaching days. Mary Martin's two granddaughters (here with their parents since Saturday evening) presented everyone with toothbrushes and toothpaste from their elementary school classes in Boston, gifts from the children there. The level of gratitude never ceases to amaze me, gratitude for even the tiniest things...and then I remind myself that these are children living in Nairobi's biggest slum, children who have nothing, children whose lives are being made immeasurably better by being at the Nyanya Preschool Center, and my heart is filled with hope.

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And now, all you bibliophiles out there, prepare to be green with envy. I was able to get "The Girl who Kicked the Hornet's Nest" in paperback at a bookstore in Nairobi yesterday- the UK edition. Began reading it last evening...and it is promising to be as wild a ride as the other two. For those of you not yet hooked, I give this amazing trilogy my highest recommendation. Lisbeth Salandar is one of the most unusual and creative characters I have encountered in a long, long time.

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I have fallen in love with Oliver, the little son of our hosts here at the Wildebeest. He is the most adaptable kid, welcoming one and all to what is essentially his home. Of course, being two, he has his moments...and wails can periodically be heard coming from different parts of the compound. But he keeps himself quite entertained, enjoys the two dogs, Fatty and Barney, and in general, seems to like people of all sorts. What an amazing way to be growing up! Having people from all over the world as your usual milieu...seeing their comings and goings as a way of life...sharing life with people of all ages, speaking many languages, and learning to be comfortable with all of them.

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I'll be out-of-touch for a couple of days as we go to the Masai Mara for a wildlife "safari". I'm hoping to see many, many animals, though how many photos I'll actually take I don't know. I think I'll be too busy just watching. Anyway, we return to the Wildebeest on Friday late afternoon, so check here on Saturday and there should be something. Asante sana for reading this. From Nairobi, Kenya...